Monday, October 8, 2012

Long Ridge on Pitcairn Island


Long Ridge
One of the best walks on Pitcairn Island is down Long Ridge to Water Valley and then back up the Water Valley Road. This walk offers wonderful views of Tedside on the western side of Pitcairn.
Descending the upper part of Long Ridge.
Matt's Rock and Young's Rock in the sea

View of Long Ridge taken from Gannet's Ridge
 
As you descend the rocky ridge you have a view behind you looking up to Gannets Ridge. 

Looking back up towards the top
 
To your right you are looking toward the ridge of Christian’s Cave.  Ahead of you is the panorama of Water Valley and Tedside.  The circular donut ring of rock in the water is called 'Garden'.  The rock jutting out into the sea is called 'Isthmus'.  This will be the site of the western Harbour that will be built providing additonal access to Pitcairn in bad weather.

Water Valley below the ridge
 



The ridge itself is solid rock so even though the drops are sheer
you feel confident that your feet won’t slip.It is relatively easy to climb down
 
Brenda Christian and Ruth sitting enjoying the view before descending from the ridge
and climbing down to Water Valley along the cliff edge.

 
An aerial view of Long Ridge

St Paul’s Pool Pitcairn Island


St Paul’s Pool

The jewel in the crown that is Pitcairn is surely St Paul’s Pool.  We have been here for eight months and yesterday we managed to swim in this beautiful rock pool. 
Ruth swimming in the pool
The two huge pillars on each side
 
 We have visited the pool many times but on these occasions we found it to be too dangerous for swimming. The strong waves crash into the pool between two high pillars.  At times the waves crash right over top of these which is an amazing sight. The waves flood the pool and then a strong current flows out the other end like a river going back out to open sea.  In the past people have been caught in the current and swept out. It pays to ask the locals for advice for when to swim.

Descending the wooden steps to the pool

The pool itself is teeming with life.  Many varieties of fish and sea creatures live in it. Paul and I tried our camera underwater and were pleased with the results.
My height gives persepective to the size of the pillars.
The waves crash right over top of these in rough weather.
 
The pool has numerous species of fish
 
An eel came out to see what I was doing with my camera
 
 
 
 
 
 

Red Ridge on Pitcairn Island


Red Ridge
Red coloured soil on the ridge
Gudgeon’s Cave is directly below the Red Ridge.
 
Having negotiated the Down Rope climb we were ready for more.  Brenda Christian suggested going down Red Ridge.  Red Ridge is named after the colour of the soil in that area.  I looked at an aerial photo that showed the ridge line from out at sea but I could not imagine how anyone would be able to climb down there. 
Descending the ridge

But Brenda led the way and we followed, down the Red Ridge across a large slip formed during the February 2012 floods and up the ridge on the opposite side of the slip.  We were walking on the edge of a cliff for much of the way. 
Looking over the edge
 
Very steep with not a lot of handholds
 
 In the next photo you can see the Red Ridge in the background that we descended.  Then we crossed a large slip and climbed the ridge on the side in the foreground. It was a wonderful day. What a truly magnificent island Pitcairn is. 
 
 
 
 


Thursday, October 4, 2012

Down Rope


Down Rope


Down Rope refers to a place on Pitcairn Island.  It is a small sandy beach accessible by boat on a calm day or down the cliff face from high above the beach.  Engraved on wall at the base of the cliff are ancient petroglyphs carved into the rock wall. Tourists who come to Pitcairn often inquire about going down there.  The track is narrow and nearly vertical in places and there is no rope.  Maybe in the past there has been a rope hence the name.  You need nerves of steel and a good head for heights to negotiate the route. 
                                               Looking towards the beach from the sea


                                         Standing looking at the petroglyphs on rock wall                                        

After my successful climb up to Christian’s Cave I decided that I would be prepared to give Down Rope a try.  My reasoning was that if it was too difficult for me then I would turn around and retreat up the cliff face.  Brenda Christian (pre-school teacher) is also on school holiday this week so she agreed to be the guide for Juergen Schuman and myself.  We successfully got to the bottom of the cliff and enjoyed a few hours on the sand and explored around the rocks before climbing back up.

                                                       I'm standing at the base of the cliff

Climbing back up.  Brenda behind me.
 

Sunday, September 9, 2012

Henderson Island Trip

Approaching Henderson Island 168km from Pitcairn
Aerial view - (photo not taken on this trip)

Cliffs surround a flat raised coral atoll plateau
 

The ship that does the regular supply run to Pitcairn Island is the 'Claymore'.
Seen here anchored off Henderson Island.
 
Henderson Island General Information                                                                                        Henderson Island is about 168km from Pitcairn Island. This uninhabited world heritage site is one of the most remote and untouched islands in the world. It is part of the four islands in the Pitcairn group, the other three being Ducie, Oeno and of course Pitcairn itself. On the evening of the 6thSeptember, Paul departed from Pitcairn on the Claymore. A couple of tourists had chartered the vessel to take them on a 40 hour return trip. The opportunity to join them was there for a reasonable cost. Paul, Juergen Schumann and Mike Rodden decided to take advantage of this once in a lifetime opportunity. They travelled overnight and awoke to find themselves at Henderson Island. 

Paul at Henderson Island
The island is a raised coral atoll approximately 7.3 km long  by 4.8 km and 30 metres high. It is basically a huge piece of coral that has been raised up from the ocean floor. There are rocky cliffs around the entire island and once you have climbed up the cliff track you come out on a very flat plateau covered in dense scrub and trees.
 
There is a sandy beach at the foot of the cliffs and a coral reef is in waist high water. A gap in the reef allows the Claymore’s inflatable Naiad to negotiate through from the open sea to the beach.

Jetsam and floatsm on a western Henderson beach

There are no buildings on the island, although the presence of an abundance of jetsam and flotsam rubbish washed up on the north beach is a reminder that nowhere on earth is that far removed civilisation as to be totally untouched.   
A pair of masked boobies (Sula dactylatra) with a chick

Birds are abundant.  Unfortunately rats were also seen.  A highlight of the trip was watching some humpback whales jumping out of the water as the boat was circumnavigating the island before the return journey home.
Humpback Whale performing
 
Strawberry Hermit Crabs (Coenobita perlatus) on Henderson
 

 

Monday, September 3, 2012

Christian's Cave Pitcairn Island


Climbing up to Christian’s Cave

 
Christians Cave is a dominant feature on the cliff face above Adamstown.  The triangular shape appears to be deeper than it actually is because of the strong dark shadows on the cliff face.  Climbing up there is not for the faint hearted.  From the cave you get a good view out over Adamstown and out to sea. 

The track up to the cave starts from the end of the Eco Trail.  The tough strong grass that grows on the cliff face is called “grab-a-leg”.  The seed pods from this nasty little plant hook into your socks and shorts and any bare skin. The barbs are like little cactus needles.

                                                                       Nearly There

Today I climbed up there with two companions and felt a sense of achievement as I stood in the cave.  The floor of the cave is flat and has a liberal covering of goat droppings all over it. As you climb up there you by-pass two smaller ‘caves’ (on the lower right as you look at the top photo).

 
Looking out of the cave towards Adamstown
 
Of interest on the way is a tunnel that goes through the rock and gives a view up the valley. You can climb through this tunnel safely.
 
The rock tunnel
 

Sunday, August 26, 2012

Social Issues on Pitcairn Island


Questions Answered about Social Issues

 
When you speak of the ‘two main families’, can you elaborate on that?  Which are the two families that are considered to be the ‘main’ families?

The Christian family and the Warren-Peu family both have five children each.  There are also the Browns and the Youngs and others.  Many people are inter-related.

 

Is there an airstrip on Pitcairn Island?

No there is no airstrip. It is such a long way from anywhere else.

A helicopter came on ship once and took aerial photos. The idea of building an airstrip has been explored from time to time. There is enough land but whether it would be suitable or not is not a question I can answer.

 

Are traditional arts and crafts alive and well on Pitcairn?

Wooden curio carving is alive and well. Models of the ‘Bounty’, longboats, turtles and fish, a vase with a hand wrapped around it and the fascinating ‘trick boxes’ with their secret opening are all popular.  Islanders sell wooden carved items to cruise ship passengers plus many have a website that they sell from, posting the items out to the worldwide customers.  Carving is a very time consuming process.

Weaving is still taking place. Some of the older women weave frequently.  Stripping the traditional pandanus fronds of their prickly edges is a bit of a mission. The strips can be dyed to give colour to the woven baskets. Nylon plastic strips are also used for practical baskets which get used for groceries, vegetables and fishing.

Paintings done on the large skeleton hattie leaves are sold to tourists.

 

Do the islanders prepare any kind of traditional hangi for special occasions?

No we have not seen this type of Polynesian cooking in evidence.
 

Do the islanders have any type of traditional Polynesian dancing?
 
No this aspect of the culture has not been kept alive.

 

Do many people go to church?

In 2012 the church services were usually attended by approximately 20 people most Saturdays. Half of these are from the Professional Team which changes each year.  The main service starts at 11:00 am.  There is a class for children before the service and there is also a bible study for adults pre-service too.

Are the Seventh Day Adventist beliefs well adhered to on Pitcairn?

The first thing that strikes you on Pitcairn is that the weekend here revolves around Friday and Saturday. Saturday is the 'Sabbath'. Sunday is a business day with the shop, finance office, library, post office and warehouse open. This takes a bit of getting used to.  Saturday is usually a quieter day. Traditional beliefs of the SDA church are not really adhered to by the majority.  Alcohol is sold at the shop and also cigarettes. Meat including bacon and pork is eaten. At the public dinners someone will open the meal with a simple prayer. I would say that Christian beliefs are important to many of the older generation.

 

Can you listen to any radio station?  If so, which one? From where?
There is a local channel. With an appropriate radio you can get overseas channels e.g. BBC.



Is there anywhere you can eat out on Pitcairn Island?

We eat out at Christians Cafe when it is open from time to time on a Friday night.  When the supply ship is here or when there are visitors on the island the cafe will be open.  It costs $12 for a huge meal which is simple e.g. a full plate of crumbed fish, chicken, lasagne, roast, hamburger and chips, salad vegetables etc. They have a small bar there and drinks are a reasonable price too.